La Voie
Presented during London Fashion Week spring/summer 2024
In a continued fascination with train travel and the rich tapestry of stories that unfold when being in transit, I decided to write a second chapter to the story I began with my 2022 collection titled “Beste Reizigers”. Delving deeper into the history and heritage of the Nederlandse Spoorwegen (NS), the company that serves as the main Dutch rail network operator.
I titled this collection “La Voie” which translates from French to “the road”, It is my intention to make this body of work the equivalent of a love letter to the history of Dutch railway and my family.
It all started by researching the history of the Dutch railway alongside stories from my family, that for the last 3 generations have been employed by the Nederlandse Spoorwegen (NS). Evidently the history of the Dutch rail- way uniform was very important for my process. The collection shows a scattered journey through time thanks to the material that was donated to me from the archives of the Spoorwegmuseum (railway museum) in my hometown Utrecht.
I wanted to focus on a lyrical perspective of the research I started with my 2022 collection. Being inspired by the feelings evoked by looking through the window at the landscape while on the train. The rhythm and timeless allure of the iconic yellow NS trains, gliding through the endless horizons of The Netherlands.
1 monter
instappen / entrain
Grey polyester/acrylic wool blend V-neck sweater, originating from the archives of the Railway Museum of the Dutch Railways uniform from the 1990s, a door panel from the Mat ’64 train adorns the chest. Attached to the sweater is the collar of a pink Fyra shirt, while a ‘flap’ in the back with the original clothing label of the Fyra, designed by the Dutch fashion designer Erny van Reijmersdal.
Grey shorts following the curves of the NS running tights. Fabricated from deadstock fabrics.
Antique glasses with original NS button in brown
2 juste à l’heure
precies op tijd / exactly on time
Tank top, constructed out of pale pink uniform button-up shirts worn between 1990 and 2005 and Fyra button-up shirts. Paired with a pleated skirt made from worn uniform trousers and jackets.
Brown 1930s pole handbag.
Original uniform shoes, and antique glasses with original NS button spraypainted in pink.
3 Plan mP
the Motorpost (Plan mP) is a Dutch electric motor train carriage, specially designed for the transport of mail.
Gilet dress, constructed out of waistcoat and skirt of my mother’s first NS uniform (Euro 92), worn in 1992. Sewn in waistband holds ‘silver belt’ made from metal parts of the seats of an SLT Sprinter train. The ‘flap’ in the neck presenting the original clothing label from manufacturer Kattenburg Uniforcé, with the shape of the ‘flap’ derived from the yoke of the waistcoat.
Crossbody bag, made from PTT mail sacks from 1984 and 1993.
Antique glasses spraypainted in pink
4 Rhenen
Blue conductor’s coat from the 1990s railway uniform, with a ‘flap’ in the neck presenting the original ‘Shelter’ manufacturing clothing label and an original location and name label. Paired with the model railway grass mat ‘deep chest top’, pied-de-poule white and blue shirt, and gray trousers worn between 1970 and 1991, Nederlandse Spoorwegen firefighting helmet from 1940’s, originally from the United Kingdom passive defense army uniform.
5 stationsbuffet
‘Shirt jacket’ with back zipper closure constructed out of pale yellow button-up shirts part of the Nederlandse Spoorwegen 1990 uniform. Golden buttons on the shoulder from an NS coat from the 1920s. The shape of the jacket is derived from a uniform from 1910 worn by the chef of the dining car. An apron, made from an antique cotton tablecloth, is held up by an anniversary pin obtained by my grandfather for his faithful service at the Nederlandse Spoorwegen. The model wears a signal lamp and gray trousers from the uniform worn between 1970 and 1991.
6 rideau
gordijn / curtain
‘Coat dress’ constructed out of wool conductors coat worn in 1920, with original golden buttons. The coat is lined in deadstock golden sequin fabric, with the back panel rolled up to reveal the golden lining. A ‘flap’ with the original clothing label from the manufacturer, Tailoring Company Fa. Gebr. Ibelings in Groningen, hangs at the neck, along with a handwritten name and job designation of the original wearer. Matching sport shorts made from the same deadstock golden sequin fabric. The model carries a conductress bag in her armpit, which has been part of the railway uniform since December 19, 1986.
7 loopjongen
errand boy
Flat ‘NS International tank top ‘, hooked onto a tank top cut in precisely the same shape, made from yellow button-up shirts that were part of the NS uniform from the 1980s. ‘Shirt skirt’ constructed out of pale yellow button-up shirts, with hidden button closure at the back. The model wears original shoes belonging to the railway uniform.
8 overwegwachteres
crossing guard
“Sleeveless wool coat with golden buttons,” originally from the Dutch railway uniform of 1930. “Arm patch” made from wool sleeve displays original embroidery of the old logo, the winged wheel, used from 1917 to 1968. The patch is shaped like the contemporary emblem of the NS safety and service uniform. The model wears original shoes from the uniform and antique glasses with an original NS button, spraypainted in gold.
9 der Fensterplatz
raamplaats / window Seat
” Single-sided coat” taking its direct shape and measurement of a window from the DD-IRM train. Fastened with a strap and NS pin. The eco-digital print depicts a DD-IRM train rushing through a field. The coat is paired with a shirt and trousers from the Fyra uniform, worn during the forty days from December 9, 2012, to January 17, 2013, when this train service was operational.
Antique glasses spraypainted in brown.
10 le facteur
postbode / briefdrager / letter carrier
Small postal train crossbody bag, made from yellow deadstock fabric with various gold ‘stains’ and signs of wear. Draped around the body is a ‘shunting horn’ on a metal chain and a rolled-up sash made from a cotton shirt, fastened with an NS yellow-tulip brooch. NS running leggings, from 2010, and gold leaf-covered Asics sneakers, both from my father.
11 wagenmeester
wagon master
Short black dress with deep chest cut out, constructed out of two velvet uniform jackets worn in 1930. In the neck hangs a ‘flap’ with the original clothing label of manufacturer ‘N.V. Ver. Ned. Tailors The Hague’ and marking of the model number 78. Worn with vegan leather suitcase-scarf.
Gold leaf Dutch wooden clogs.
12 der Schaffner
de conducteur / the conductor
Coat, constructed out of a blue conductor’s coats worn in the 90s, has been ecologically spraypainted in various shades of gold. The closure runs from the neck to the wrist with original gold uniform buttons. On the back, a sprayed ‘shadow’ of the ‘label flap’. In the neck hangs a carriage key (driehoek sleutel) that opens the door panel of the first look, essential for my grandfather’s train journeys to open all the compartment doors.
Gold leaf Dutch wooden clogs, antique glasses spraypainted in gold.
LFW La Voie SS24
Hosted and produced by Fashion Scout
Public relations | The Pop group
Hair lead | Diego Miranda for Unite Hair
Makeup lead | Mandy Gakal for AOFMPro using Dermalogica
Show music intro | Ejovadi | Stoomtrein SSN 1075 uit Rotterdam laat zien hoe het moet
Show music | HVAD and Pan Daijing | Zhao Hua
Location | Protein studios
Steamers | Propress steamers
Lookbook photography | Shao Jun Woo
Substantive editor for funding request | Marion Poortvliet
Models
Archie | @archiesummerhayes | IMM
Kharis @kharisadama_ | M±P models
Jaenna @jaennaration | named models
Abiola @abiolx.o_ | W model
Ethan @kosmonaftis | IMM
Emma @emma_murai | Bame model agency
Ayaz @ayaz.khezrzadeh | named models
Eugene @eugrose | Revolt agency
Very grateful for Stimuleringsfonds (creative industries fund NL) for believing in this project and granting me with financial support.
Special thanks to the Spoorwegmuseum and Nederlandse Spoorwegen.
And my lovely team and friends for all their time, skills and kind words
@shaojunwoo @jamieinwater @albertoenriquebermudez @davidrubenmollema @a_oz__ @denzelveerkamp @batuhandemir__