After winning the prestigious Lichting prize last year, Yousra Razine Mahrah presented her much-anticipated collection, titled ‘Kabouda,’ on the final day of Amsterdam Fashion Week. Amsterdam’s De Hallen Studio’s served as a background to Yousra’s new collection, a testimonial to craftsmanship and the importance of embracing the clothing restrictions of her faith.

With her debut solo show, the young designer is embracing and blending these differences and contradictions that coexist within her. She named this collection ‘Kabouda’ after the nickname given by her father which means ‘Sweetheart’ in Darija (Moroccan). For this concept, Yousra delved into the notion of nudity, questioning the importance of exposing the body. She posed the question: “How can you make a shape or an object that is non-body recognisable still alluring without revealing the body contour or the body itself too much?.” This new collection offers an answer, as she blends traditional Moroccan materials whilst covering the body, presenting this as a symbol of freedom. Yousra sees beauty in what is covered. Her message is one of merging the different worlds within us, as combining them is what makes us who we are. Her faith and ambition made her the fashion designer that she is today.

For ‘Kabouda’, Yousra looked for fabrics in Morocco with her father and made contacts with local workshops, exploring traditional weaving techniques. Working with local sewing studios revealed new opportunities, closely observing their way of embroidering by hand with silk threads and finishing with intricate beadwork.

In her debut collection, Yousra reaffirmed her status as a master craftswoman and an adept storyteller, weaving a narrative of revelation and concealment. A particularly memorable ensemble featured a model in a flowing, orange-hued burka, her face partially hidden by a delicate, beaded mask that swayed with her every step. One arm, exposed up to the elbow, moved gracefully in rhythm with the music, embodying the essence of fashion as a form of expressive gesture. Another striking piece, both otherworldly and impactful, showcased a black, wing-like structure adorned with white lace. The chest piece, reminiscent of armour, retained a sense of delicacy through its lace appliqué, blending strength and fragility in a captivating balance.

Much like Yousra’s own life, ‘Kabouda’ is a vibrant mosaic of diverse influences. While it may not always feel entirely uniform, it beautifully presents a patchwork of different worlds coexisting in harmony. These unique juxtapositions reflect the contradictions that shape us all, making both life and fashion profoundly compelling.

Words by Ines Lopes