Dott 2020
Tight woolen dress following the curves of the body. Seam lines emphasizing the natural shape of the figure ending in a square.
A transparent overdress amply floats around the model, cut out of a single piece of silk screened paper nylon. A baroque resembling abundance of pleated fabric grows from the front of this overdress.
Trough the sleeves an arm pokes out, gloved and covered in dots. On the head the model balances blue face covering glasses and is topped off with a folded circular headpiece.
Exhibited Transmissions, Heritage and new creation exhibition
2021 Cristóbal Balenciaga Museoa
Dott on display
The subject behind this piece took place in the week of Amsterdam Pride. When we celebrate our freedom, a new Dutch law was introduced; The partial ban on face-covering clothing: From August first, 2019, you may no longer wear face-covering clothing such as full-face helmets, balaclavas, masks and veils (niqab, burqa) in government buildings, educational- and healthcare institutions and in public transport. Face-covering clothing is permitted at these locations if necessary, for the practice of sport, work, events and festivities. Because of this we will have to celebrate our freedom to get it.
In other words, a feast or festivity is needed to gain freedom to express yourself. This need for a feast, expresses itself in the work through the act of dressing up, like a kid dancing around costumes.
The celebratory and festive Spanish flamenco with its dotted traje de flamenca reminds me of my grandma’s special occasions blue on white polka dot dinner set.
The first 3D test that started the process to this work, was an under-construction that balanced a coat on the shoulders of my model. This triangle resting on the back of my fitting model felt reminiscent to a traditional Spanish “mantilla” veil.
Cristobal Balenciaga’s semi-fitted suit introduced in 1951, started my exploration to experimental seams. The jacket fits tightly in the front, following the volumes and shape of the body, while the back hangs in a curve away from the body. This technique of creating greater freedom of movement in a tailored garment ensures interesting seamlines. The loose back-panel with a completely straight side seam is stitched to the fitted front. Stitching these irregular seams together creates excess fabric at the height where the waist dips in.
I blew this technique up of stitching irregular seams with the volume at the front of this garment.
Moulaging with the cover of a typical Dutch raincoat resulted into the shape of my folded headpiece. This hat derived, from a quick hat-folding-session, resembles one Cristobal Balenciaga made for his spring 1951 collection inspired by the garments of the nuns of Saint-Vincent-de-Paul in Paris.
Taking inspiration from Cristóbal Balenciaga with his floating garments standing delicately away from the skin. With the 1958’s Babydoll, Balenciaga reveals his constant fascination for lace that simultaneously covers/hides and reveals the body. This “overdress” hangs loose from the shoulders down, creating air and empty space giving the impression of freedom. An opaque dress can be seen through the transparent layers, hugging the figure.
Photography | Shao Jun Woo
Model | Zora Hamers
Set design | Kirsten van de Belt
